by Koots on 08 August 2020 - 02:08
How do you interpret the behaviour shown in the vid? Disregarding the 'flirt pole' and tug, what do you see?
by ValK on 08 August 2020 - 04:08
by Hired Dog on 08 August 2020 - 05:08
The humping is just a sign of excitement, my puppy did that too when I first got him, he stopped a couple of weeks later.
I see a puppy who is more interested in different smells and such rather then the prey item you offered.
by apple on 08 August 2020 - 06:08
I agree about the prey drive. If you have to do this by yourself, I would tie him out so that if the prey starts to get away, more frustration will build. He seems to have a good threshold for initiating prey but when the prey goes dead he looses interest. Since you are doing IGP, and tying out will likely encourage pulling rather than pushing, that will better suit bite mechanics for that sport. Also, as soon as he engaged, you let the prey go dead. I think tying out could address both those issues. You could also try a small, empty bleach bottle rather than a rag for a while because it is harder to grip and builds frustration. At first it is okay if the pup tries to possess or pin the bottle to the ground while trying to grip. When tied out and the pup has a grip, pull the prey on the rope in a rhythmic manner simulating a heartbeat which can tap into your pup's prey instincts.
by Hired Dog on 08 August 2020 - 08:08
I will make a pass, two at the most with the rag, moving away from the puppy and I will allow the puppy to engage it as it has the energy of a full strike.
I do NOT allow it to chase it mindlessly around, loosing steam and interest and then learning that if it sits in the middle of your zone, he will get it as it passes him by. I want the dog to hit that rag full of energy and steam, plow into it.
As far as moving it after the dog engages, yes, depending on his genetic prey, I dont want a dog that will eventually become locked in prey.
I keep switching between movement and no movement, again, depending on what the dog brings genetically and this type of training only happens for maybe 3 minutes and 2-3 rounds in those 3 minutes.
There are times where I will put the dog away afterwards with NO BITE. Also, be careful of giving the dog anything to bite that may cause a cut in his mouth, this is not the time to discourage full blown entries and engagements.
by Q Man on 08 August 2020 - 09:08
I am a great believer in ALWAYs leaving the puppy with wanting more...So I will play with the puppy until I can get them to achieve as much as possible then end the session at the high point...Leaving them with wanting more...Each puppy is different and needs different things...So you have to watch and learn what's needed...
by ThatWasClose on 08 August 2020 - 13:08
by ValK on 08 August 2020 - 15:08
as for prey, explicitly was asked to ignore the tools, have been used.
i'm curious why Koots should be in needs to push that pup to more prey?
pup already has it and from my perspective more than enough.
by apple on 08 August 2020 - 16:08
by ValK on 08 August 2020 - 17:08
bite's mechanic teaching is achieved by providing a) condition and b) object of bite.
premise, which stimulate pup to produce bite, can vary and not necessarily be a prey motivation :)